Author Archives: David

About David

Stained Glass artist and designer

Round Clematis Tutorial 3

Round Clematis Tutorial 3


 Round Clematis Tutorial 3, in which I cover steps 11 – 14 including foiling, flat soldering, outer lead attachment, final soldering and applying the patina.

Step 11

Round Clematis Tutorial 3 step 11

I am now starting to foil the pieces, I do this by removing them one at a time and then replacing them as I proceed. I find this method works very well as you are able to make minor adjustments as you work across the panel. It is important during this process to make sure you burnish the foil onto the edge of the glass. I always use a putty knife for this process.


Step 12

Round Clematis Tutorial 3 Step 12

Here is the panel with all the foiling complete. I will now proceed to flat solder the panel on the front side. I use 50/50 solder to do this if I have any, if not 60/40 will do. Once the front face has been flat soldered, remove the template and repeat the process on the reverse. I use a “U” shaped lead came to provide a nice neat finish to the outside edge of the panel.


Step 13

Round Clematis Tutorial 3 step 13

First soldering completed on both sides and the perimeter lead in place. You can see the two pieces of black tape securing the ends to the panel. It’s always good practice to place the join on a seam for neatness. The final bead solder can now take place to finish the panel.


Step 14

Round Clematis Tutorial 3 step 14

Once the bead soldering is complete all flux and solder residue should be removed. I would use hot water and a little detergent for this, then clean with” 0000 ” steel wool. This will make the patina take a lot better. Finally, I use a little black stove polish on a brush to buff up the finished panel.

Links:

Click here to download PDF pattern

Round Clematis Panel:

Round Clematis Tutorial 2

Round Clematis Tutorial 2


This post will cover steps 7 to 10 in this Round Clematis Tutorial.

Step 7

Round Clematis step 7

 

I am now adding some Uroboros fracture and streamer glass code 11-296 down the right-hand side. This will introduce a different more broken translucent light effect. Also, I still want to include a small strip of water glass at the bottom of the panel. Although I will now leave this until last as I am happy with the way everything else is progressing.


Step 8

Round Clematis step 8

 

The remaining fracture and streamer background glass is now in place. I’ve added the last two flowers and the rest of the leaves as well. Now I have to make a decision on how to introduce the strip of water glass into the composition. I am thinking of a simple straight line, this will help to give the panel a base. Also to put it behind the flower and leaf petals so it appears in the distance.


Step 9

Round Clematis step 9

With the water glass added and all the pieces now cut, I can see the complete picture and am quite happy with the result. The next step in the process will be to place the cut pieces on a lightbox. This involves putting all the pieces on a clear sheet of glass and placing it over a light source. This will give me a good idea of how the finished panel will appear and flag up any obvious mistakes. These can then resolved before foiling begins.


Step 10

Round Clematis step 10

On the light-box now and although it’s difficult to see I’m quite happy with the way everything looks. Of course, I have the benefit of years of experience here. If you are new to stained glass it’s all about developing your own process or way of working. The best advice I could give to you is to make small projects. That way you will repeat the process every time. Pattern preparation, cutting and fitting pieces, foiling, soldering, cleaning and polishing.

Links:

Click here to download PDF pattern

Round Clematis Tutorial 3

Round Clematis Tutorial 1

Round Clematis Tutorial 1


In this Round Clematis Tutorial 1 I will cover the next four steps. They mainly cover the background on the left-hand side of the panel.

Round Clematis Tutorial Step 3

Round Clematis photo 3

You can never be quite sure how a color scheme is going to turn out. So I have started this panel by cutting two flowers, some background and leaves. This is the color scheme in my mind at this point so laying it out will help future glass choices. I have settled on a Youghiogheny ” Laburnham ” glass for the flower centres. This may yet change as the panel develops. I find it’s best to keep ideas fluid in the early stages.


 Step 4

Round Clematis Tutorial 1 photo 4

Continuing to build up the picture I have now added more of the background glass. This is a Youghiogheny stipple glass, code NO 57 ” Neodymium Pink with Peach Gold and Bubblegum. The background glass has a rather nice natural effect which I am trying to work into the panel. This means cutting the pieces very carefully using a band-saw. 


 Step 5

Round Clematis Tutorial photo 5

Now with more background, flowers and leaves added. Flower glass is Youghiogheny code N367 ” Neodymium Pink, Dark Purple and Blue”. Leaves are also Youghiogheny code 1431 ” Lime and Emerald Green “. You can now see the natural effect starting to appear in the background. I have used this to create some interest and balance the flowers on the opposite side.


 Step 6

Round Clematis Tutorial photo 6

I have taken the background glass down the left-hand side of the panel. I am now thinking of introducing some pink fracture and streamer glass on the right-hand-side. This is to create more interest and texture behind the lower flowers. I would also like to introduce some water effect along the bottom of the panel. For this, I will use a ripple effect glass.

Links

Click here to download the PDF pattern

Round Clematis Tutorial 2

Round Clematis Free Pattern

Round Clematis Free Pattern


I am going to do a step by step tutorial over the next few posts. These will show the methods and various processes that I go through in the creation of a stained glass panel. For those of you who would like to participate, I have put in a link to download this Round Clematis Pattern for free. So the client I have wants a Clematis design in a circular panel. To fit the brief I have taken a pattern I designed for a 305 mm diameter clematis pattern and enlarged it to 474 mm. I am also going to adapt it slightly to incorporate a water glass effect, here is the original panel.

12 " diameter round clematis panel

 

The client really likes this design but would prefer the color scheme used in the “Blue Clematis” panel below. This is a large rectangular shape measuring  38.25 x 18.75 inches so unsuitable for their requirements. We have agreed on enlarging the smaller circular panel and that I will incorporate the colors and composition elements from the “Blue Clematis” panel into the new design.

 

Blue Clematis

 

So I have enlarged my PDF pattern and printed it out, making two copies. One for my template and one for cutting the glass pieces out. I use a pair of foil shears to cut out the separate pieces, these have a three-blade design to leave space for foil and solder. I will adapt the pattern slightly at the bottom to include some water glass but have decided to do this later in the process.

Round Clematis Step 1


Round Clematis Photo 1

Step 2


To create a nice neat circular edge I have cut a round template at 464 mm diameter using a router and 4mm MDF board. This will be fixed to a baseboard using horseshoe nails. I have allowed for the width of the perimeter lead which will frame the finished panel at 474 mm. These calculations have to be quite exact and are well worth spending your time on.

 

Links:

Click here to download PDF pattern

Round Clematis Tutorial 1

Poulfur School Window Installation

Poulfur Window Installation


Poulfur Window Installation. This post follows on from the previous Poulfur Window and the Poulfur School Commission posts.

Poulfur School Window Installation before fitting the secondary frame.

With all the sixteen panels and the two frames complete it was now time to install the window. The first job was to fix the two secondary frames into the window recesses top and bottom. These frames will fit flush up to the window, exactly matching the existing frame. Once they are in place we will fit the sixteen separate panels that make up the whole installation.

Poulfur School Window secondary frames fitted

Frames installed and the first big sigh of relief. You can see from the pictures above that both secondary frames have a cross-member fitted. This provides added strength and support for the leaded panels which we will begin to fit now.

Fitting The Panels


Poulfur School Window first two panels fitted

We have decided to start in the top left-hand corner and work across and down. The upper frame is actually six inches taller than the lower frame. Here are the first two panels in situ, so far so good

Poulfur School Window three panels fitted

This is panel no three showing the very top of the lighthouse installed. This is the largest panel in the whole installation so we were glad to see it in place. Second big sigh of relief, this concluded our first days’ work.

Poulfur Window Installation Day Two


Poulfur School Installation 5 panels installed in top section

Day 2 and we now only have one more panel to fit in the top section, everything lining up and progressing well.

Top section completed and two left-hand side panels installed in the bottom section

The top section completed and two left-hand side panels of the lower section fitted.

Upper section completed three panels fitted in lower section

We were glad to see this central panel in place as it is the focal point of the whole installation.

Poufur School Window Installation completed

Poulfur School Window Installation completed! Here is the finished window photographed from the upper floor through a glass screen. There is a floor to ceiling glass screen on the upper floor that allows a full view of the window.

Round Magnolia Tutorial

Round Magnolia Tutorial


Round Magnolia in a stand, 16 inch round stained glass magnolia panel in window stand, pink flowers on a turquoise background.
16″ Diameter Round Magnolia in a Stand

Round Magnolia Tutorial Introduction


Pictured above is a 16″ diameter Round Magnolia panel placed in a stand on a windowsill. The glass used in this panel is Wissmach which gives the subject a very flat oriental look. In this post, I will go through the various stages of the construction of this pattern. For this, I will use the same pattern but 12″ diameter and Youghiogheny Glass. This will produce a much different effect.

Step 1

Round Magnolia step 1 cutting out the five lilac flowers in 12" round template.
In the first step above I have cut out the five flowers. I don’t always do this but every panel is different and so I change my approach. For this piece I am sure of the flowers, the tricky bit will be the background glass.

Step 2

Round Magnolia step 2 cutting the green background glass to fit the circular edge.
After making my glass selection I cut the outer edge first, then grind to ensure a nice neat fit.

Step 3

Round Magnolia step 3 fitting the outer edge background piece.
I then make my other cuts and fit the piece around the flowers. A ring saw can be a very useful tool here.

Step 4

Round Magnolia Tutorial step 4 more green background glass added, branches and leaves cut.
Some more background added now plus all the branches and leaves. I can see the picture starting to emerge.

Step 5

Round Magnolia Tutorial step 5 lower green background glass added

The lower background now complete, I have used a darker shade for these pieces.

Step 6

Round Magnolia Tutorial step 6 all pieces cut and on the lightbox.
With all the pieces now cut I have placed the panel on a lightbox to check on progress. I am happy enough so far but would also like to see it with daylight coming through.

Step 7

 Magnolia Tutorial step 7 panel all cut with daylight shining through
I have fixed my template to a sheet of clear glass and placed it up against a window. You can see the difference in how the light affects the panel it’s so much sharper with the daylight. Time for foiling and soldering.

Step 8

 Magnolia Panel step 8 completed and hanging by a chain in a window.
Here is the finished panel hanging in a window. You can see now the difference that glass selection makes to a finished panel. Also how you can create a different feel and look using the same pattern.

Halloween Skull PDF

Halloween Skull PDF


I love creating skull patterns so a Halloween Skull PDF is too much to resist. The colors of course are simple enough, orange and black which I have used here for the border and top hat. The skull is a white ring mottle glass, to give him a spooky look. Iridized crackle glass and iridized waterglass make up the cobwebs in the background. There are also a few glass globs thrown in for good effect. Once I had him drawn up I thought he’s going to need a name so that’s where Cobweb Eddy came from, suits him too. 136 pieces and four glass globs in this pattern if you are brave enough to tackle this bad boy in time for Halloween.

Halloween Skull PDF Pattern of Skull in black top hat surrounded by cobwebs, designed by David Kennedy
Halloween Skull PDF

Halloween is now a modern-day global feast day. But it’s origins lie in Ireland in the Celtic feast of “Samhain” pronounced “Sow-in”. This was a celebration of the harvest, the end of summer and the start of the Celtic new year. It is still marked to this day with the Puca festival, three days of fire, feasting and music. Here is a link if you are brave enough to visit: https://www.pucafestival.com/

Stained Glass Pattern Information


Downloadable PDF pattern prints actual size 17 inches x 17 inches, ( 440 mm x 440 mm ) across six pages. Instructions provided for enlarging the pattern to your required size when printing. You will need Adobe Acrobat Reader to print this pattern free at https://get.adobe.com/reader/.

The pattern for this panel is now available to purchase as a PDF download in the pattern store

Copyright information


Halloween Skull PDF Stained Glass Pattern (© David Kennedy Designs) copyright 2020. All rights reserved.
It is illegal to distribute this stained glass pattern online or in hard copy without written permission from David Kennedy.
Please do not post or distribute this stained glass pattern on other websites.

The Shamrocker

Pirate Skull

Cobweb Eddy PDF
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Poulfur School Window

Poulfur School Window


 

Welcome to the second part of the Poulfur School Window story. In the last post, I covered the design and the construction of the top four panels in the upper section. I am now moving onto the lower four panels in the upper section. Once again I have started with the largest panel which contains most of the detail of the lighthouse.

Lighthouse Panel


Poulfur School Window lighthouse panel

I have managed to incorporate four plain bevels into the light section here. Three of which I have had to cut, these are the only pieces of clear glass in the whole installation. They appear white here due to the paper pattern underneath the glass. This can be a little disconcerting during construction but I am sure it will look very effective.

Poulfur School window lighthouse bevels close up

Here is a close up of the bevel pieces. I have used Spectrum Waterglass on either side to add to the effect of shining light. English Muffle and other textured glass were also used in the window to give it some ” sparkle ” if you will.

Here is a large image of the panel with the light coming through. You can now see the effects of the different glass textures. Its also worth noting how the light changes the colors of the glass

The Three Side Panels


With this panel completed, I then move onto the three smaller side panels. Here they are after cementing and you can see the different glass textures. Once the cement has dried they will receive a thorough cleaning before installation. With these eight panels finished this completes the top section of the window.

The Lower Window Section


Poulfur School Window Lower section left hand side panels

Moving on to the bottom section of the window, I took a different approach by making the side panels first. Here are panels 9 and 10 in situ in the frame before the cementing process.

Poulfur School Window, upper central panel in the lower section

The central panel was quite important in the appearance of the window. This involved some tricky cuts so by doing it last I was able to line everything up.

Central panel with right-hand side panel

Here is the central panel with the right-hand side panel. The gap between the two panels is 150mm which represents the frame, you can now see how everything lines up.

 

Central panel with left-hand side panel

The left-hand side panel is shown here with the central panel. These four panels complete the third section of the window.

The Final Four Panels


Once again I have started with the outside panels. The right-hand side has one panel and the two go on the left.

Final three side panels Poulfur School Window

I have added the flowers to introduce a bit more colour into the composition. The red and white represent the school sports colours. They are also the colours of the local Fethard-on-Sea GAA club St Mogues.

The Final Panel


 

Here is the central panel under construction. There are a lot of curves in this panel which made it very labour intensive.

Poulfur School window final panel under construction

Here is the panel completely cut and ready for soldering at all the joints, followed by cementing.

Final Panel all cut and leaded
We now have all sixteen panels completed. Next up will be installing the frames and hoping everything lines up, fingers crossed.

Poulfur School Commission

Poulfur School Commission


This year we have a commission to supply and fit a stained glass window in the new Poulfur School building. This is under the % for art scheme which provides arts funding to new buildings. The installation will be above the entrance doors at the front of the building. It will be visible from both the first and ground floor levels. Space comprises an upper and lower section total size approx 12 ft high by 9 ft 3ins wide.

Poulfur School Window, upper and lower sections of proposed stained glass window installation.
View from the ground floor
Poulfur School Window view from the first floor
Poulfur School Window view from the first floor

The design stage


After discussions with the Board of Management, we agreed upon the design above. This assumed a square-shaped window but this had changed after the installation of the frame. So we then had to incorporate the design into the available space. Armed with all the measurements we drafted a working drawing. A secondary interior frame would house the glass panels.

The Working Drawing


This proved to be a lengthy process and definitely worth taking some time over. With the working drawing complete to scale the full-size patterns were then prepared. We had all the measurements to construct the secondary frame. This would then gives us the template sizes for all individual panels.

First Panel
Poulfur School First Panel in progress At this point, I had a rough idea of the colors and glass types I was going to use. I figured it would be best to start at the top of the installation. It would then be easier to make any adjustments as I worked down the design. I prefer to work this way as it keeps everything looking fluid and fresh.
First panel completed This was also the largest panel, the top section being 6 inches taller than the bottom section. Having completed this panel I then moved on to the side panels. I now had the benefit of being able to view these placed next to the large panel.

Right-Hand Side Panel

Right-hand side panel There is only one panel on the right-hand side so I have done this first. The frame between these two panels is 6 inches wide and I have made an allowance for this.

Left-Hand Side Panels

Left-hand side inner panel The inner panel on the left-hand side is about 2 inches thinner than the outside panel. There is also an allowance for two 6 inch frame pieces on this side of the window.

Left and Right-Hand Side Panels

Right-hand and Left-hand side panels Here are the three smaller panels together, two left and the one on the right. It’s also important to note that the glass will completely change color once lit from behind.

Two Left-Hand Panels

 

Two Left-hand side panels back lit Here are the two left-hand panels with the light behind them spaced 6 inches apart to replicate the frame. As you can see from the previous photo some of the glass now looks clear. This is because it is very pale and when all the window is complete everything will blend together. This completes the top four panels.