So here is the completed Round Clematis Panel in the window. Lit from behind with natural daylight the background pink is picked up as hues in the flowers. The strip of waterglass emphasises the bottom of the panel, so it would have to be installed this way up. On the right-hand side, the fracture and streamer glass breaks up the background and creates a different light effect. I am happy with the way this has turned out as it has a contemporary feel to it. Also, it looks a lot different from the original smaller pattern but still works. This is particularly satisfying as it’s a primary aim I have when designing patterns. I try to make them as adaptable as possible as far as enlargement and re-sizing go. There is a link at the bottom to download the free pattern. The original pattern is 12″ (305mm) in diameter with instructions for enlarging supplied.
Stained Glass Pattern Information
Downloadable PDF pattern prints actual size 12 inch x 12 inch, ( 305 mm x 305 mm ) across six pages. Instructions provided for enlarging the pattern to your required size when printing. You will need Adobe Acrobat Reader to print this pattern, available free at https://get.adobe.com/reader/.
For those of you who have followed this blog and would like to try a similar piece the original pattern is available here as a free download: Click here to download PDF pattern
Round Clematis Tutorial 3, in which I cover steps 11 – 14 including foiling, flat soldering, outer lead attachment, final soldering and applying the patina.
I am now starting to foil the pieces, I do this by removing them one at a time and then replacing them as I proceed. I find this method works very well as you are able to make minor adjustments as you work across the panel. It is important during this process to make sure you burnish the foil onto the edge of the glass. I always use a putty knife for this process.
Here is the panel with all the foiling complete. I will now proceed to flat solder the panel on the front side. I use 50/50 solder to do this if I have any, if not 60/40 will do. Once the front face has been flat soldered, remove the template and repeat the process on the reverse. I use a “U” shaped lead came to provide a nice neat finish to the outside edge of the panel.
First soldering completed on both sides and the perimeter lead in place. You can see the two pieces of black tape securing the ends to the panel. It’s always good practice to place the join on a seam for neatness. The final bead solder can now take place to finish the panel.
Once the bead soldering is complete all flux and solder residue should be removed. I would use hot water and a little detergent for this, then clean with” 0000 ” steel wool. This will make the patina take a lot better. Finally, I use a little black stove polish on a brush to buff up the finished panel.
This post will cover steps 7 to 10 in this Round Clematis Tutorial.
I am now adding some Uroboros fracture and streamer glass code 11-296 down the right-hand side. This will introduce a different more broken translucent light effect. Also, I still want to include a small strip of water glass at the bottom of the panel. Although I will now leave this until last as I am happy with the way everything else is progressing.
The remaining fracture and streamer background glass is now in place. I’ve added the last two flowers and the rest of the leaves as well. Now I have to make a decision on how to introduce the strip of water glass into the composition. I am thinking of a simple straight line, this will help to give the panel a base. Also to put it behind the flower and leaf petals so it appears in the distance.
With the water glass added and all the pieces now cut, I can see the complete picture and am quite happy with the result. The next step in the process will be to place the cut pieces on a lightbox. This involves putting all the pieces on a clear sheet of glass and placing it over a light source. This will give me a good idea of how the finished panel will appear and flag up any obvious mistakes. These can then resolved before foiling begins.
On the light-box now and although it’s difficult to see I’m quite happy with the way everything looks. Of course, I have the benefit of years of experience here. If you are new to stained glass it’s all about developing your own process or way of working. The best advice I could give to you is to make small projects. That way you will repeat the process every time. Pattern preparation, cutting and fitting pieces, foiling, soldering, cleaning and polishing.
In this Round Clematis Tutorial 1 I will cover the next four steps. They mainly cover the background on the left-hand side of the panel.
Round Clematis Tutorial Step 3
You can never be quite sure how a color scheme is going to turn out. So I have started this panel by cutting two flowers, some background and leaves. This is the color scheme in my mind at this point so laying it out will help future glass choices. I have settled on a Youghiogheny ” Laburnham ” glass for the flower centres. This may yet change as the panel develops. I find it’s best to keep ideas fluid in the early stages.
Continuing to build up the picture I have now added more of the background glass. This is a Youghiogheny stipple glass, code NO 57 ” Neodymium Pink with Peach Gold and Bubblegum. The background glass has a rather nice natural effect which I am trying to work into the panel. This means cutting the pieces very carefully using a band-saw.
Now with more background, flowers and leaves added. Flower glass is Youghiogheny code N367 ” Neodymium Pink, Dark Purple and Blue”. Leaves are also Youghiogheny code 1431 ” Lime and Emerald Green “. You can now see the natural effect starting to appear in the background. I have used this to create some interest and balance the flowers on the opposite side.
I have taken the background glass down the left-hand side of the panel. I am now thinking of introducing some pink fracture and streamer glass on the right-hand-side. This is to create more interest and texture behind the lower flowers. I would also like to introduce some water effect along the bottom of the panel. For this, I will use a ripple effect glass.
I am going to do a step by step tutorial over the next few posts. These will show the methods and various processes that I go through in the creation of a stained glass panel. For those of you who would like to participate, I have put in a link to download this Round Clematis Pattern for free. So the client I have wants a Clematis design in a circular panel. To fit the brief I have taken a pattern I designed for a 305 mm diameter clematis pattern and enlarged it to 474 mm. I am also going to adapt it slightly to incorporate a water glass effect, here is the original panel.
The client really likes this design but would prefer the color scheme used in the “Blue Clematis” panel below. This is a large rectangular shape measuring 38.25 x 18.75 inches so unsuitable for their requirements. We have agreed on enlarging the smaller circular panel and that I will incorporate the colors and composition elements from the “Blue Clematis” panel into the new design.
So I have enlarged my PDF pattern and printed it out, making two copies. One for my template and one for cutting the glass pieces out. I use a pair of foil shears to cut out the separate pieces, these have a three-blade design to leave space for foil and solder. I will adapt the pattern slightly at the bottom to include some water glass but have decided to do this later in the process.
Round Clematis Step 1
To create a nice neat circular edge I have cut a round template at 464 mm diameter using a router and 4mm MDF board. This will be fixed to a baseboard using horseshoe nails. I have allowed for the width of the perimeter lead which will frame the finished panel at 474 mm. These calculations have to be quite exact and are well worth spending your time on.
12″ Diameter Tiny Tiffany Two. This time I have sorted out some glass pieces that I would like to use. These would be offcuts that I have left over after previous commissions. I’ve gone for a clematis design this time, the same size as the previous Scene with Poppies post.
About The Panel
There are three different glasses in the background. Blue, purple and a small piece of grey glass which has fractures on the reverse side. These are small flakes of glass fused into the surface creating shadows. I have arranged for the flowers to flow down through the panel and act as a bridge between these colors. The small leaves are an ideal way to introduce some green into the composition and balance the other colors. Bearing in mind this is only 12″ in diameter I have tried to create the feeling of a much larger panel.
I have been working with glass for close to forty years and as a medium, it has no equal. Drawing and painting are very much two dimensional but with glass, you get to work with the light. Of course, it’s quite unforgiving as well so you have to be very precise with everything. Having made two of these Tiny Tiffany panels now I find it amazing how much detail I can get into them. The moral is that it’s always worth trying something new, learning for me is the real essence of life. We forget what we actually know because were only interested in learning what we don’t know.